Bib Overalls
By Carole Christman Koch
About 1650, overalls (always said in the plural form, as “a pair of overalls) came about through gaiters, known as “spatterdashes” (later termed spats for short). A buckled garter strap, above the knee, held it in place. These garments were worn over the shoe and lower pant leg, to protect the stockings and breeches from water and mud, when walking, hiking, or riding.
If worn by a horse rider, they were called “knee caps,” and were side-buttoned and worn over riding boots.
Spatterdashes (gaiters) were not only worn by civilians. By 1750, they were part of the dress uniform of some regiments.
Also around 1750, spatterdashes were extended up to the waist, adding a seat, crotch, and fall front. This overall covering, now looking like trousers, protected everything from the waist down. Thus, the first pair of overalls were born.
After overalls had been around awhile, a bib was attached to the overalls, now called bib overalls. They were baggy trousers, with a bib front attached, that covered the chest and stomach with shoulder straps. They usually held a button or buckle closures on both the upper trouser sides. The great feature were the many pockets on the legs and one on the bib.
Another name for them was “back and brace,” which are like suspenders, fatter as they go down the back, and the brace (strap) extended to the front connecting with the bib. The straps in front usually had buckles on the top side of the bib’s both sides.
Usually, they were associated with farmers, carpenters, factory and railroad workers. They became known as “slops” due to being considered clothes for the lower working class.
The most common material for bib overalls was denim due to its durability and comfort. The word “denim” is an Americanization of the French material “serge de Nimes” (Nimes being
the city in France). Denim is only colored after weaving and is made from uncolored yarn, sometimes called blue denim.
Overalls weren’t only for working men, during the war years ---World War 1 and 2--- women wore coveralls when doing industrial work to help with the war effort. Paintings of Rosie the Riviter abound in her denim work clothes.
Since the 60s, bib overalls have graduated from the working class to fashionable wear for the younger generation. By the 70s, they were popular with the hippies and college students. In the 1990s hip-hop and other recording artists made them popular by letting one shoulder unfastened and hanging loose.
Bib overalls are in full fashion once again in all kinds of fabrics, colors, and shapes---even women in high heels can be seen wearing them.
And, yes, I even found a song about overalls. In 1956, Malvina Reynolds came out with “Bury Me In My Overalls,” to a folk tune called “Bib Overalls,” recorded by Jane Russon and Roy Fancher.
“Bury me in my overalls,
Don’t use my garbardines,
Bury me in my overalls
Or in my beat-up jeans.
Give my suit to Uncle Jake
He can wear it at my wake,
And bury me in my overalls.”